New Design Ideas

Traditional Cultural Expressions (TCEs) are vital in Indonesia, serving not only as markers of cultural identity but also as contributors to the creative economy. Yet in fashion and other creative industries, TCEs are often appropriated without careful consideration of community perspectives, risking both cultural heritage and the livelihoods of those directly connected to it. This study investigates how participatory design can provide more sustainable pathways by examining five Lasem-inspired fashion projects, each engaging diverse actors including designers, academics and local craftsmen. Using Lee’s participation model as an analytical framework, the study identifies three recurring participation tactics - innovation, collaboration and emancipation and examines how initiative, power distribution and cultural positioning shaped each project. Findings reveal that user-initiated projects aligned with emancipation tactics, while those led by academics or students reflected collaboration or innovation. These dynamics highlight how participation is not a fixed model but a flexible practice shaped by cultural context. Two critical implications for design practice emerge: designers must act as cultural mediators, connecting diverse actors and integrating local knowledge into coherent outcomes and sustainability must be embedded as a guiding principle, linking material choices with knowledge exchange. Future research should pursue three directions: longitudinal studies to assess long-term impact, cross-cultural comparisons to distinguish universal versus context-specific tactics and digital co-design innovations to expand participation beyond geographical boundaries. Together, these insights position participatory fashion design as both a pathway for sustaining TCEs and a model for building sustainable creative ecosystems.